19 July 2010

Bratislava

I was last in Bratislava some ten years ago and then I stayed several days but this time it was just a brief stop on the long train journey between Brno and Banska Stiavnica. Even in just one day it was easy to spot some of the big differences and also the things that have not changed very much.


The Old Town is still a jumble of narrow cobbled streets clustering around the Town Square for comfort.

Lining the streets are baroque buildings in various states of repair but all with that certain Central European charm.

This is why you go to Bratislava.

What is different now is that tourists have discovered Bratislava and the once quiet empty streets are lined with bars that are busy until early in the morning.

The area between the Old Town and the Danube has been transformed the most and the dark dirty street I remember is now a wide boulevard with fountains, modern art and even more bars.

It also has the friendliest American Embassy that I've come across so far in that you can take photos of it without having armed guards approach you. Yes, I'm talking about you, Budapest.

High above the town the castle dominates the skyline even more than before thanks to its Colgate White finish which becomes even more prominent when darkness falls and the spotlights play on the facade, almost fooling you into thinking it is flying.





Bratislava is not the unspoilt city that it was ten years ago but times change and genies cannot be put back into bottles and clocks cannot be wound bac. But if you ignore the bars and look at the buildings behind it is still a very pretty city and well worth spending a few days in.

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